Mysterious and unique to Cornwall, fogous have had archaeologists scratching their heads for hundreds of years and they are no closer to solving the mystery. These underground passages are only found the far west of Cornwall, usually close to an ancient settlement. Their name, pronounced foo-goo, means cave in Cornish but they are also known as fuggy holes, vugs or vows.
The fuggy hole found close to the Trelowarren Estate on the Lizard Peninsula is the largest and best preserved of its kind. Halliggye fogou is thought to date from the Iron Age, around 2400 year ago, and was once part of a farming settlement occupied by several families for roughly 700 years. That is perhaps as many as 25 generations on just one piece of ground – working, worshipping, living and dying together.
I have visited several fogous in Cornwall and have always found them fascinating structures. There is something otherworldly about them, something unnerving about stepping down into the damp and dark of the earth.
As you go deeper inside Halliggye the passage grows narrower and lower. Sound appears deadened and the temperature drops noticeably, the world outside recedes.
I am afraid the lack of light makes them distinctly unphotogenic too, so apologies for the quality of the images!
The passages at Halliggye are T shaped. One longer curving tunnel leading off from the side of another, the first reaching some 20m into the belly of the earth. They are lined with dry stone walls and are cold, damp and as dark as a grave.
What our ancestors actually used fogous for remains a complete mystery. There are several theories however. It is possible that they were used as places of safety to escape attack (although it wouldn’t be healthy to spend any length of time hiding in one). Some suggest that they were used for storage because they remain cool even on the hottest days. And the final consideration is that they were used for a ritual purpose.
I have heard it said that the entrance of some fogous aligns with the setting or rising of a solstice sun or that stepping inside these subterranean passages is akin to returning to the womb.
Perhaps their function and importance more than 2000 years ago will never be completely understood but they are another connection to our past that deserves exploration. So why not visit yourself and see if you get a feeling for what the answer may be.
Halliggye fogou is cared for by English Heritage and is free to visit from May to September. There is a torch provided near the entrance but the batteries are often tired so my advice is to bring your own.
If you are looking for others to visit by far my most favourite fogou of all is Carn Euny but you can also visit Boleigh, Pendeen Vau, Trewardreva, also known as the Pixie Hall at Constantine.
There are other ‘lost’ fogous at Chysauster, Boden Vean near Manaccan, Lower Boscaswell and Pendeen at Castallack. I understand that another was found at Penhale Round during recent work on the A30 but was destroyed.
For other similar places to visit try: Boscawen un – When is a Stone Circle not a stone circle? or Tregiffian Barrow & the Cup-marked Stone
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Fascinating! Thank you for opening our eyes to yet another facet of Cornwall’s unique history. I find the fact that the fogous are lined with dry stone walls especially intriguing. It would have been hard enough to dig the tunnels using Iron Age tools, but then going to the additional effort of lining the space with dry stone walls (while working by torchlight) shows just how important these places were.
I love your blogs, keep them coming
What a fabulous and fascinating post. I had never heard of them until now, can’t wait to share it with the kids 🙂 xx
So glad you enjoyed it! Thank you x
So interesting! The next time I visit Cornwall I’m just going to Usenet your blog as my travel guide. Thank you 🙂
Haha thank you!! 😆
Use * of course!
I love the mysteries left by people before us. There are similar wonderings about early settlers in what is now New Mexico and Arizona. I wonder what future generations will make of abandoned shopping centers.
There’s also one at Tintagel, out beyond the castle.
The one at Tintagel is an underground chamber but it isn’t a fogou.
Hi, I can confirm that the fogou at Boden Vean is not lost, but was rediscovered in 2003 by CAU and has subsequently been investigated by Meneage Archaeology Group. Dating suggests it was constructed at the same time as Halligye, circa 400BC. See the full report in Cornish Archaeology 52 (the journal of the Cornwall Archaeological Society).
Thank you James, that’s good to know, is the report online? I would love to go and have a look!
I’ve started using your blog as my Cornwall holiday guide too! Visited Halliggye Fogou last week – very atmospheric, especially if you turn off your torch when you get right to the end and experience true pitch-darkness. Good tip of yours to take your own torches – the one in the box was completely dead. Also, a lovely easy 15 minute stroll across the fields from the Trelowarran car park. Carn Euny is already on my list for next years holiday!
That’s great Ann, so glad you enjoyed it! And you’ll love Carn Euny, it s a special place too!
Only just found this report. What about adding that in WW2 Trelowarren Fougou was used as a last ditch place for the special Home Guard who hid explosives and weapons there, incase the Germans actually invaded. The members would have retreated there and tried to cause havoc to the invading forces.